Ban Doong Village is home to the Bru - Van Kieu community. The village is located in the core zone of Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park, and serves as a stop on the Son Doong Expedition Tour and Hang En Cave Adventure. Surrounded by dense forests and limestone mountains with little regular human presence, this village exists quietly as a rare sign of human warmth deep in the wilderness.
The route to Ban Doong Village passes through dense forest, rocky slopes, and untouched valleys, about three kilometers from the nearest road. When the village comes into view, what stands out is not only the landscape, but also the enduring presence of the Bru - Van Kieu community.
Simple stilt houses with wooden fences and the way the community preserves its life deep in the forest add layers of cultural depth to the expedition journey.
Overview of Ban Doong: Location and history
Ban Doong is located in a valley within the core zone of Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park, in Quang Tri Province (formerly part of Quang Binh Province). Its isolated setting deep in the forest has shaped a Bru - Van Kieu community accustomed to a slow, self-sufficient way of life.
The Bru - Van Kieu people originally lived deep within present-day Laos before gradually migrating to both sides of the Truong Son Range. On the eastern side of Truong Son, within present-day Vietnam, they settled in the mountainous areas of the former Binh - Tri - Thien region. It is Quang Tri and Thua Thien Hue today, and came to be identified as the Bru - Van Kieu community.
During the resistance, the Bru - Van Kieu people made significant contributions to the country’s struggle for independence and peace. They supported communication networks, guided troops, carried out reconnaissance, helped open routes, transported ammunition, and carried supplies. With generations of experience living in rugged forest terrain and deep knowledge of the Truong Son Mountains, they became a reliable support alongside the Truong Son troops.
Ban Doong was established in 1992 by Mr. Nguyen Soai Trac and five Bru - Van Kieu people. They came from Quang Ninh District in the former Quang Binh Province to clear land, build houses, and settle there. After their homes and crops in their old village were destroyed by floods, they decided to search for a new place to live.
The place they chose was a raised area of land beside the Rao Thuong River, in the Doong Valley, where Ban Doong stands today. Mr. Nguyen Soai Trac became the village head and the founder of Ban Doong.
Nearly a decade later, when Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park was established in 2001, Ban Doong fell entirely within the strictly protected core zone. Local authorities encouraged and supported residents to relocate to the lowlands in order to improve their living conditions.
Despite ongoing hardships, limited living conditions, and travel mainly on foot, the people of Ban Doong chose to stay and remain connected to the land. Local authorities designated a residential area for the village. Residents can maintain their traditions and farming practices within permitted boundaries while taking part in protecting the forest and their natural heritage.
After nearly 35 years, Ban Doong has grown from a small group into a community of 11 households with 46 residents. Generation after generation continues to live within the core zone of Phong Nha - Ke Bang, forming an inseparable cultural part of this natural heritage.
Ban Doong as a stop on the Son Doong expedition
On Oxalis cave adventure tours, both the Son Doong Expedition and Hang En Cave Adventure include a trip to Ban Doong village.
From the western branch of the Ho Chi Minh Road that runs along the mountainside, travelers trek over Ba Gian Slope. They cross dry stream beds and follow narrow trails deep into the old-growth forest before reaching a valley where rooftops appear in the distance. The route is not long, but it is enough to clearly feel the distance from the comforts of the outside world.
Upon arriving in Ban Doong, travelers take a break to rest, have lunch, and observe the daily life of the Bru - Van Kieu community. residents grow corn and peanuts, and also plan to cultivate upland rice, a type of rice that can grow with limited water, to secure their food supply. Stilt houses, wooden fences, small fields, and everyday sounds echoing through the valley create a simple yet resilient living environment.
Ban Doong is not completely isolated from the outside world. During festivals, young people from the village cross the forest to visit nearby border villages, where they meet, socialize, marry, and continue the cultural traditions of their community. These everyday life stories turn this forest stop into a meaningful cultural moment within the expedition journey.
After leaving Ban Doong, travelers continue to Hang En Cave and camp overnight at one of the most beautiful campsites inside the cave. The campsite sits on a sandy bank beside a clear underground lake, where natural light illuminates the entire cave chamber.
From this point, the two adventure tours lead travelers to different experiences and emotional journeys.
On the 2-day, 1-night Hang En Adventure, the expedition tackles rocky slopes that lead into cave chambers beyond the reach of natural light. As the space grows darker and the terrain more uneven. Each step becomes slower and more engaging, with layers of stacked rocks, steep sections, and limestone formations emerging in the darkness under headlamp light.
The route is filled with countless rough rock blocks of different sizes and shapes. It is arranged seemingly at random and forms massive stone steps. These steps lead travelers to the rear entrance, rising up to 110 meters high and 120 meters wide. From here, the view opens out over an underground stream, a bright patch of sky, and vast forested mountains beyond.
This tour is suitable for those new to trekking or for travelers who want to become familiar with tropical forest terrain. They aim to prepare for more challenging journeys, such as the Son Doong Expedition.
The 4-day, 3-night Son Doong Expedition offers a higher level of challenge and exploration in the forest. From the Hang En campsite, the team passes through this gateway cave, continues across an untouched valley, and climbs steep limestone slopes to enter Son Doong Cave.
Travelers will explore the massive cave stretching nearly 9 kilometers long, with an average height of 200 meters and a width of 160 meters. They can assign enormous stalagmite formations towering like skyscrapers, such as the Hand of Dog stalagmite and the Hope and Vision passage.
The expedition group will visit Doline 1, also known as the Watch Out for Dinosaurs. This is famous for the iconic Wedding Cake stalagmite, where sunlight pours in, creating a dreamlike, almost otherworldly atmosphere.
The journey continues to Doline 2, known as the Garden of Edam. A pristine jungle has formed deep inside the cave, up to 200 meters below the surface, and through the Passchendaele passage leading to the legendary Great Wall of Vietnam.
Depending on physical fitness, personal interests, and budget, travelers can choose an adventure tour that includes a visit to Ban Doong Village. To book a tour, travelers should visit Oxalis Adventure website and carefully review the itinerary and physical requirements of either Son Doong Cave Expedition or Hang En Cave Adventure.
After understanding the itinerary, travelers select an available departure date. They should provide complete information about their health and physical condition for the expert team to review and offer guidance. Personal information is kept confidential, so travelers can feel assured and provide accurate details.
Changes in Ban Doong with the development of Phong Nha tourism
Before Phong Nha - Ke Bang tourism became widely known, Ban Doong Village was almost completely isolated from the outside world. Access to the village relied on narrow, difficult trails through old-growth forest, and daily life depended entirely on human effort.
There was no electricity or mobile signal. The school consisted of temporary thatched shelters, often damaged during the flood season. Residents relied mainly on upland farming, growing corn and peanuts, and raising livestock and poultry for self-sufficiency. Occasionally, they carried out small-scale exchanges with traders from the lowlands. Life was closely tied to the forest, yet always vulnerable to natural disasters.
Changes began to arrive gradually through the combined efforts of local authorities, the traveler community, and especially Oxalis Adventure and the Oxalis Foundation. From 2003, access routes were upgraded, making connections to the town more convenient. However, residents still need to walk about three kilometers through forest paths to reach the road.
By 2007, the septic toilets were built for the village, marking an important improvement in living conditions and environmental hygiene.
From 2014, Oxalis invested in a clean water supply system, bringing water from upstream sources to Ban Doong Village, easing daily life for residents. The Oxalis Foundation also supports them through flood relief, food assistance, medical support, and annual scholarships for all students in the village, etc.
Since 2008, Ban Doong Village has had a school, though it remained basic and was often damaged by floods. In 2015, Oxalis invested in building a new school. They mobilized 125 porters to carry nearly 80 tons of materials over 600 porter-days to construct Ban Doong school where teachers and students could study with peace of mind.
In 2021, Viettel built a small mobile signal station in the village, allowing households to start using mobile phones. People in Ban Doong Village also began using solar power on sunny days, with stored electricity available for use in the evenings or on rainy days.
As Hang Son Doong Cave and Hang En Cave adventure tours became fully established, Ban Doong gradually turned into a familiar stop along the journey. Three households now rent out their homes for cooking and lunch breaks. They took part in logistical support and, step by step, gained a more stable source of income.
Tourism has not changed the community’s forest-based way of life. Instead, it has opened a path for the community to remain, make a living, and protect the land they chose during their earliest and most difficult days.
A few notes for a more meaningful explore Ban Doong Village
What many travelers remember about Ban Doong Village is not only its remote location deep in the forest, but also the presence of people within that landscape. Village residents live simply and are open and welcoming. Children are often curious and excited when trekking groups pass through. These brief encounters create a rare sense of closeness during an expedition journey.
However, Ban Doong Village is first and foremost the everyday living space of a small community, so thoughtfulness in behavior is always important. Asking for permission before taking photos, especially of children, is not only a matter of respect but also helps interactions feel more natural and comfortable.
Children in the village are very friendly and often greet expedition groups politely, with bright smiles and curious, innocent eyes. However, travelers are advised not to give money or sweets to children or other residents, as this can lead to unhealthy habits over time.
If travelers wish to offer support or gifts, they should contact the Oxalis Foundation or speak with their guide for proper assistance.
Along with respectful interaction with residents, proper preparation also helps make the trek and the experience in Ban Doong Village more comfortable. Lightweight, quick-drying trekking clothing and shoes with good grip make it safer to move along forest slopes, streams, and narrow trails.
When leaving Ban Doong to continue the forest trek, many travelers naturally slow their pace. After witnessing how the community lives in close connection with the mountains and forest, caring for the landscape feels instinctive.
Carrying all waste out of the forest and avoiding harm to trees or water sources no longer feels like rules to be reminded of. It becomes a natural response after passing through a truly lived-in environment. This is also how an expedition extends its respect to the land and the community that has been connected to it for generations.
